The Ari Watch
Introducing ‘Ari’ by Eva Leube
Eva Leube had a vision of a timepiece curving elegantly around the wrist like a piece of jewellery, bearing a beautiful movement arcing gracefully with the contours of its case. Taking four long years to develop and create, ‘Ari’ is the hard-won realisation of Eva’s dream; a watch consummately presenting the inordinately complex as simple and uncluttered… and stunningly beautiful.
Immediately striking are Ari’s strong, clean lines and uninterrupted views of the curvaceous movement, resplendently on display thanks to the adroit use of sapphire crystals all along the front as well as along both sides of the case. The audaciously bowed movement sees the balance placed at the top, its vibrant oscillations providing a mesmerising feast for the eyes. Beneath that is a sub-dial displaying seconds followed by the elegantly simple hours and minutes dial in the centre. All the hands are in traditional heat-blued steel.
Further down, “Eva Leube-Hand Made” is hand-engraved on the ratchet wheel. At the bottom of the movement is the small crown wheel, with the crown for winding and time-setting at the 6 o’clock position of the case.
To allow for a panoramic sapphire window along the entire right side of the case, the crown has been ingeniously moved to the bottom of the movement by creating a new hand-setting mechanism hidden inside the mainplate, travelling from the centre of the watch towards its base.
In most watch movements, the crown wheel, ratchet wheel, click with click spring, escapement and balance all face down towards the back of the watch. For Ari, Eva has turned them all to face up towards the viewer, making the open-face movement even more visually attractive.
Not surprisingly, this created considerable challenges and required additional intermediate pinions, a reversed escape wheel and a completely reworked pallet fork.
While the case is light and bright in design, the watch as a whole retains excellent rigidity and strength. The movement is mounted directly to the case back, ensuring that the seemingly light and fine construction is extremely robust.
With talent and dedication, Eva Leube’s vision of Ari has become a reality.
‘Ari’ Technical Specifications
Case and Dials
Case: Available in 18k gold or platinum 950. Crown and buckle in metal to match case
Dials: Both dials in 18k gold
Crystals: Three anti-reflection sapphire crystals (top and both sides)
Crown: located at 6 o’clock position
Bracelet: Leather bracelet custom-made to client’s specifications
Engraving: Case/movement hand-engraved by master engraver
Dimensions: 52.44mm x 21.6mm x 8.45mm (height)
Balance: Free sprung balance with regulating screws
Balance frequency: 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz
Balance diameter: 15mm
Power reserve: 40 hrs
Number of jewels: 18
Number of components: 209
Chatons: 18k gold
Gear train: Highly-modified gear train from a Record 302 calibre
Finishing: Main plate and bridges in rhodium-plated brass
Ratchet wheel: Hand-engraved ‘Eva Leube-Hand Made’ by Master Engraver John W. Thompson